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You’re a good man Charlie Brown.

Just want to chime in and say how much I appreciate the humility displayed here. You acknowledged the fingers might have obstructed the view, when your vocal explanation was saying exactly what it was supposed to be. I suppose the visual learners struggled with listening, and hence the clarification would help them. Have always appreciated the pursuit for truth on this channel, and what made this video great was not so much the content, but the inspiring ways RUclipsrs can humbly engage with the hating mob without needing to resort to stupid shaming. Thank you Alex.

There will be no more comments saying you were wrong, Alex. You were clear.

Thanks for the clarification or added 'detail'. I like detail, some don't. But I knew exactly what you were doing and saying in the 1st vid. I even looked up "ricasso" to be sure. So many smart people out there. RUclips brings us all together.

i think the lack of emphasis of the phrase "on the flat side" made the misunderstanding, someone already commented this but i also had the same understanding when i first heard the phrase, since the word "flat" just means 'having a smooth, even surface' and not this part 3:25 people who are not familiar with knives such as myself only thought there's only 1 other side of the knife (which is true in some cases as stated here 3:58 ), we didn't know there's also the "opposite to the other bevel" side of the knife 😂

Brilliant explanation!

Sir I've been watching your videos and just wanted to thank you for all the info and analysis you've done and shared with the community and people like me who don't have easy access to this kind of knowledge

Yeah, you should have explicitly shown the "flat" part of the knife, and pointed out how it's parallel to the centreline, in the original video. I figured out what you meant, but had to think about it for a second or so, and I don't blame those who didn't understand. It's a bit weird that you use a wooden block with a V on it, as there is no "flat" on that V ...nor, indeed, on any part of the actual blade proper, of that knife, (rather being on the ricasso) that appears to have a full flat grind. Also, it would have been good to clarify how there is a "flat" on most sabre, scandi, or chisel grinds. (of course those "flats" don't _have_ to be parallel to the centreline, but...)

Naught from naught leaves naught! 😅 keep up the great work.

I heard you say the flat part of the blade not the bevel. Great job.

You are way over complicating it. O the angle finder on your stone. Set the knife on the stone. Set the angle finder on the knife. Add 1/2 that angle to whatever the bevel guide angle is to find what angle you are grinding at. And none.of this really matters. Freehand is just what it sounds like. Develop a feel for what you are doing, bevel guides maybe can help you start but I doubt it. Unless you just use it for a veeery base starting point. Other than that it becomes a crutch that hinders your development of the skill. I just counted, I have 13 1x7 diamond plates ranging from 150 to 3000 grit that I have collected over the years sitting by the chair I kick back in in the garage. I can grab any one of them( except for the 150) in one hand and sharpen a knife in the other hand, no idea what angle its at except for feel. Put just as fine an edge on with 240 grit as I do with 3000 just takes different amount of pressure. Now this is after they have settled in, the 240 is probably about 500 by now and the 3000 is probably about 4000. I've got a fixed angle sharpening system, a 1x30 belt sander with trizact belts, a king waterstone, a sharpal combination recommemded by this channel(very,very nice), about 4 smith coarse/fine field sharpeners, assorted steels and diamond hones, strops, diamond pastes and powders, this list isn't done but you get the idea. 99% of my sharpening is kicked back in my easy chair with a plate in one hand and a knife in the other . I'll show myself out now😅.

Great update thanks. I bought an angle finder just to check and I use angle guides often cuz I’m picky. Now I know the actual angle I use to freehand sharpen! My Bess test are all under 100 and my sharpest knife is 13.

Great video as always. Quick question, do you recommend using a kuromaku for magnacut steel?

Since that 4 micron stropping solution you recommend is out of stock, will I be okay with 2 micron instead? (first timer)

Could you sharpen a sword? What particular challenges would that pose vs a knife? Would it take different techniques?

Simple explanation for the formula: If you have an angled knife face (bevel), you can find the angle of that face by first measuring the difference between the angle guide and the knife faces (plural). This will of course measure the angle between the TWO knife faces. Now the center line should be exactly in between that angle, unless you have a weird or very badly manufactured knife, so you can divide that difference by two to get the extra angle that an angled face adds to the centerline. This is what you add to the angle of the angle guide. Simple to do if you wrap your head around it.

Can't wait to find out how the pull through sharpener will fit into all of this.

I honestly thought the same thing but didn't say anything and now with this video I feel vindicated. Thanks 😊

I disagree with you. If you're resting the knife against your angle guide on the flat, then you should have the angle finder on the flat, but if you put the knife against the angle guide on the primary bevel you will have to put you angle finder on the primary grind

I thought both videos were clear. However, instead of saying "the flat part of the blade," you might have said "the ricasso, which is the flat part of the blade near the pivot."

I was looking to get an all-round sander and picked this one up. It's really got the power for its price, but I wish there was some adjustability to the belt, so u could put a curvature on it to get clearance for knife sharpening. It's just got too much bulk around the belt to really get a 14-17 angle on my knives without running into the bolster/handle.

I felt you were right in the previous video - placing the guide on the flat, i.e. parallel to the centerline, of the blade. But it was a great confirmation to see the wood block as the proof. Well done! And I'm impressed with your humility to shoot another video for those who had questions. That's very uncommon. Thank you.

Thanks for clarifying. Makes a lot of sense.

Yeah. What you said. Right. 🤪

Your first video was clear… only way nitpickers could be hinting you were wrong is if THEY didn’t watch entire video, or they missed your explanation.

I dont know how people got this wrong. I thought you were pretty clear. You said the flat part of the blade not the edge of the blade. I guess it doesn't hurt to clarify things. Thanks for the video.

Uh...thanks for trying to clear it up...but it's more than an exercise in ridiculousness. It doesn't matter that much, so you nerd/dorks with your slide rulers and black rimmed glasses...get a life.

If memory serves, you mentioned in the previous video that some knives would need to be disassembled to access the flat. Made sense to me.

This is silly. Just test with chives, and watch yourself bruise them and crush more cells. That would be cool if you showed us what sharpening aproach and edge destroys the fewest cells when cutting.

Exactly. You don’t know shit about how to sharpen a damned knife. Therefore this whole video is pointless because you don’t know how to do such a thing with a knife. I make knives by hand in a forge and put edges on them myself with many different methods. These sharpeners being one of them AT THE LAST STAGE OF THE PROCESS. If a knife edge is completely squared off these sharpeners WILL NOT WORK. They are made for slight dulling but YOU HAVE TO USE THE GOT DAMN THING CORRECTLY! which you’re still using it incorrectly. But not wasting my time telling you how because just like this video, trying to teach someone like you how to properly sharpen a blade with one of those sharpeners is useless.

Hello, Alex; I hope your health is good, & you & yours are well. GREAT video, I for one did not notice when you said on the "FLAT". So great job straightening out mistakes & misconceptions. And a GREAT job interacting w/ your viewers, too. Many 'tubers could take lessons from you on 'how to' interact w/ their viewers. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!

Brain hurts the first half of the video.

Just go to 8:15 and will save you a lot of time…

This is exactly what I was wondering about. You really need to know the whole geometry of the blade to understand this. Because I too was thinking there's an angle from the spine to the secondary bevel and that's where the measurement tool was. I didn't see that there's a flat part behind the edge near the handle. I thought you meant the primary bevel when you said flat part of the blade. You know because assumedly it's not hollow or convex grind bevel so it's flat. It could be, but that's how one might interpret the progress of the video. Funnily enough, I kept watching and thought you most likely do know what you're doing and you did consider these possibilities and had a way to get around it. Turns out to be true. I'm too lazy to figure this one out, but you could also measure the primary bevel on flat surface and on the angle guide, subtracting half of the flat surface measurement from the angle guide measurement should give the same answer, couldn't you? If I'm not mistaken, on flat it should be 4,5°, on the guide 18,5° and the result 16,3°. I find this slightly mote comfortable than the average of the sum of the angles, I prefer subtraction over division in math done in the head. You might have to do these things if you're sharpening for example a kitchen knife, many don't have the flat part behind the blade.

im with you fellas

Geometry class for free 😆

🤮

1:55 "is that even wood?"😂 But seriously, good explanation of your previous explination. Definitely helps a knife nerd like me

a lot of respect for how you are handling things, I mean peoples, youtube coments etc... having a good pedagogy is not easy

There's an easy and very precise method of setting the angle that involves using a measuring caliper and, unfortunately, some math. Set the caliper to the distance of (sin(desired_angle) * width_of_the_blade )) + (blade_spine_thickness * cos(desired_angle) / 2), fix the distance using the screw (if your caliper has it) and then use the depth-measuring side of the caliper to get the upper side of the blade spine at exactly that height from the stone surface. That's it, you have your perfect angle! EDIT: to simplify things further, the cos(desired_angle) can be omitted (assumed to be 1) since even for a 25 dps angle it would change the resulting angle by only 0.15 degrees.

@outdoors55 just recently subscribed to your channel. I love your depth in talking about stones, sharpening and the comparison videos I’ve seen. I’m a chef and I like to follow Japanese sharpening angles on most my knives I have a right handed 70/30 ratio to them I can’t get them to be hair shaving sharp but I can manage to go a couple weeks without sharpening while also using my honing rod. What’s a tip to get an offset ratio like that to be hair shaving sharp? I’m really curious about your thoughts on their approach to sharpening knives and their angles. Just saw your video about your health hope you get well, best wishes brother.

This is all just us nerding out on angles. So when anybody, any manufacturer, sharpener claims what angle we technically have no idea what they're going off of so technically it doesn't really matter, U R correct.

I am glazed. Lol

Nice

Thanks again

All one needs to do is average (add together, divide by two), the angle indicated by the guide and the angle measured by the angle finder. And that's what you've done, you just used a more round about mathematical route. BUT... I find it a bit odd (egotistical) that people actually saw that minor error as worthy of note. It takes all kinds, I suppose. Maybe next time they can micro-manage your renunciation based on the dialect in their part of the world. ;-)

Thanks for the clarification! Like others I thought you placed the finder on the side of the blade-I didn't even realise it was physically possible to align it with the back/spine/top or whatever one wants to call it.

You are the "Mr. Science" of Edge-ology. I got the gist of what you were saying the first time, and I think lots of others did too.

Nice video! Can you benchmark your knives on that sharpness scale people use?

I know you've made a career out of a deep understanding of knife sharpening, and you repeatedly show in real time sharpening knives to hair whittling sharpness in under 2 minutes, but I dont think you understand knife angles bro. YT commenters lol.